I don't even need to say this is Paris....
Paris – well it is as lovely as last time we were here pre-Covid. We got the EuroStar from St Pancras and popped up on a late Thursday afternoon in central Paris. Easy peasy, I much prefer this to flying – everything about it was preferable. We were staying in the Batignolles area, other areas ARE available and I am sure they are lovely – however I just love the village-vibe here. The few times I have been lucky enough to come to Paris, this is the area that has me totally smitten and as it was up to me to organise the hotel here we are. Hotel des Batignolles – small, cheap and rather cute.. it is right slap bang next to a hardware/domestic stuff type shop – I never got in to investigate but I LOVE that sort of thing, there is an anthropological delight to pondering lives lived with other peoples stuff. I firmly intend to arrange a repeat stay at our hotel just so I can explore that shop. No, that is not weird behaviour.
shall we start with a little breakfast?
I don’t want to sound all casual as though we pop over to Paris “whenevers” as we certainly don’t – this is a huge thing for me and so I am determined to soak up every tiny millisecond of being here, I am also going to recommend this area tucked below Montmartre as it seems a bit quieter and without the Instagrammers clogging every pore of the area with their posing and pouting (I wonder what they will all do when Instagram is no longer the hip thing??? Everything has its season doesn’t it – what happens when these young things are no longer young and quite so aching at peak?). Anyway, the Batignolles is sweet and I’m rather partial to this area – close to Montmartre, Abbesses, Opera…but neighbourly, and very local if you get what I am trying to say…
Friday, we were up and out for an early start at the Atelier des Lumiere – this is something that utterly entrances me, this is my third visit over the years, I visit every time I am lucky enough to get to Paris. A huge old warehouse gutted and painted black inside upon which are projected artworks on the walls and floor. You are completely immersed in the art works of Van Gogh or in this case Cezanne and then Kandinsky to carefully thought-out music. People are very quiet and just mesmerised, it is quite one of the most fabulous things ever that I could recommend anyone tries.
On the outside, maybe a little meh...
... on the inside, extraordinary
plenty of space for quiet contemplation
you wander about at will and just absorb everything
I’d happily spend all day in there, but I’m with Gravel-Guy and even though he enjoyed it, he has his limits. We emerge slightly spaced and wander past the Bastille and along the Fayolle Marine, and on towards the Jardin des Plants.
Huge and fabulous
Art Deco gloriousness
and inside the jungle...
fabulously tall specimens
and looking up - it is so beautiful
outside into the baking heat to cool down
There is the spectacular glasshouse the Serres d’Auteil – it is quite wonderful but stinking hot and a series of delightful gardens also needs exploration. La Drogeurie has a series of PDFand paper sewing patterns of cute little summery tops and other things one of them named after the greenhouse (a sweet little v neck blouse that is very nice to make and wear) – and yes, as they have one named after this greenhouse and I have made it, I am sad enough to NEED to explore this… And so we explore this art deco delight and then the garden of evolution before sitting at a kiosk and having a lentil salad each (lots of lovely lentils but relatively light on the leaves compared to what we expected, but still quite delicious. I kept the tiny and impossibly cute bottles of balsamic vinaigrette as y’know… reasons, no I don’t know why I squirrelled them into my bag apart from cuteness and you never know when a balsamic dressing emergency may strike at future dates).
To escape the baking summer heat, we then went into the museum of minerals – its not big, but wowser upon wowsers it is just crackingly good. Gravel-Guy was a very happy Gravel-Guy and thoroughly enjoying himself. I have to admit I loved it – I was always that kid entranced by brightly coloured rocks, sad maybe but there we are, these were amazing. Their quartz examples were mindblowingly enormous. Totally worth it.
I seriously want an entrance like this, Gravel-Guy says no
Some of the quartz specimen were almost as tall as I am
the knitter in me says these colours would be perfect in a jersey
and the knitter in me says I'd like felted pink mittens
yep, all minerals
grey and honey - stripey jersey for sure, or perhaps a teacosy to end all teacosies
I have quite a lot of yarn this colour already...
possibly a favourite colour combination
mineral equivalent of an orange mohair jumper
love this colour, bit like my lovely yarn from Deb....
We pottered back along the Seine taking in the incredibly sad sight of Notre Dame.
sad, but she is on the mend...
We took in a bit more Seine, taking a look at the fabulous exterior of the Pompidou centre and then magically we just happened to find ourselves at the outside of the Passage du Grand Cerf.
still vibrant and interesting to look at after all these years
On the pretext of sheltering my anglo-pink skin (usually the bane of my existence but in this case a brilliant excuse), we entered and quell surprise! A yarn/fabric shop – Lil Weasel which takes up two tiny shops opposite each other in the passage. Gosh - isn't that just marvellous as a stroke of luck/serendipitous moment??? Actually yes it is, as my sense of direction is utter pants so even though I wanted to get there, the chances of zeroing in like an exocet missile are slim to none normally as I am so easily distracted by all sorts of other things.
cute and adorable - before I even got inside the shop
situated on opposing sides of the passage, two dinky shoplets
Naturalment, I HAD to go inside and look, Gravel-Guy hunkered down in a glowering heap outside much to the consternation of the lovely ladies, as if a grouchy Gravel-Guy has ever put me off yarn pfffft. Once I managed to convey there was no way in hell Gravel-Guy is likely to set foot in a yarn shop, they were much more chill and I had a jolly good rootle about – Malabrigo – tick, Katia – tick, Fonty – seems kind of a European equivalent to Rowan and must investigate later… a little hand dyed yarn and of course some notions and tools to investigate. All very pleasurable – a delight to visit and very lovely ladies who opened up the annex on the other side of the passage so three shoppers could have a good look. Lovely.
We ended up somehow in Montmartre at a wonderful littl, out of the way Italian for dinner before heading back to the hotel and calling it a night with 31 846 steps registered on my phone.
Day 2
Today was a gentler day after yesterday, we decided to take a more leisurely stroll and head off to the Musee Montmartre which is a wonderful little place to explore in Montmartre, funnily enough it is never hoachingly busy – lots of French people seem to visit but I guess if you have to pay to enter maybe that puts the young Instagrammers off? They all seem to be milling about in the busy bits of Montmartre but not in there with its pretty gardens and excellent exhibitions. It is a cracking place – I highly recommend it.
a view of the Montmartre vineyard - the wine apparently isn't that great, but that doesn't matter, every year there is a harvest festival...
random staircase - lovely and sinuous
enjoy some wandering about the beautiful gardens
yes, we are actually in the heart on Montmartre
Currently they have the fauvist Charles Camoin, if you like brilliant colours, a little bit of the south of France, you would probably like him. The musee also has works dedicated to Montmartre (what a wild and crazy place it was) and an especially good selection of works by Suzanne Valodin (what a wild and crazy woman she was too I suspect) along with her studio left as it was – superb, and really rather moving.
le chat noir - synonymous with the area
fabulous and intense artwork
... I particularly love this woman, I bet she was wild
a quick peek out the window and a pinch-me moment that I really am in Paris...
and into the exhibition
beautiful... you can smell that piney foliage almost
all of it, beautiful and you can feel the hot milky air
everything about this painting - gorgeous
Suzanne Valodin, self portrait, what a strong face - what a presence
her cosy little apartment
isn't this incredible!!!
From the sublime and serene back into the melee of Montmartre and the Instagrammers, down into Abbesses, I made a vague pretext of my pallid-pink skin needing a gentle cleanser and my foofy whitish hair needing a conditioner to get me into Monop’Beauty whilst Gravel-Guy did his pound puppy schtick outside… the skin thing didn’t persuade him, but he hates chewing mouthfuls of my hair when we are in bed and he is trying to sleep, so anything to control the curly “foof” is something he will fall for. I can report – Monop’Beauty are super good, lots of mid range French/European names you’d recognise if you like skin care stuff: Caudalie, Leonor Greyl, a very happy experience I could have spent ages and the assistant that materialised as I was gawping blanky at shelves with French explanations was fabulous – she was NOT letting me buy anything except what was right and proper and no, she didn’t sell me the most expensive but what was the best fit for my skin and hair, I could have happily stayed there for eons, however I had more plans in mind and didn’t want to try gravel-Guys patience in too much.
quite a jump from the musee to the outside
Out I come and immediately straight across the road and down one block before turning right into Rue Cortot we just “happened” across another yarn shop. Petit Points Paris is small but delightful, it was shut for “vingt minutes” as we arrived but the lady inside saw me dribbling at the sight of all the yarn and came scurrying forward to welcome me in.
how cute is this? irresistible...
... and inside, even lovelier
the darling owner!
Love at first sight from me and for her darling shop, lots of Fonty yarn etc and a small selection of yarn she dyes herself, we had a great natter about yarn and she knew of Loop in London and Knit with Attitude but not Beautiful knitters or Tribe. In terms of the nicest yarn shop in Paris so far?? This beats La Droguerie which I love and Lil Weasel which is ace, this HAS to be the best so far – tiny but super lovely in terms of the yarn and also the fabulous owner, she was super delightful and had the most beautiful spectacle frames ever – I want to look as gorgeous as her when I grow up, she slid a flyer for the Lyon yarn festival into my purchases... Lunch was at a delectable Lebanese café in a small square somewhere in the Pigalle before we toddled towards the Musee de Gustave Moureau.
yes another staircase, but so pretty
The Musee de Gustave Moureau is nuts. I loved it – Gustave had the idea of kitting out his house as an art gallery, there are pictures upon pictures upon pictures, if there had been a Madame Gustave I don’t know how she might have coped (she was previous by the time he set about this grand and rather mad vision) – the man’s vision of what he wanted was all consuming. Even the personal apartments are picture upon picture upon picture, nuts – but wonderfully nuts. Sadly he only lived for three years here before he too became a bit previous.
fair to say, Gustave liked his stuff
it's pretty full...
but look at that sublime staircase
We decided to ease our way back up to the hotel, stopping in at Notre Dames des Lorettes (how pretty! And how unexpected), a couple of covered passages and past the vertical garden in the second arrondisement (Gravel-Guy knows I like that sort of thing and it will briefly stop me harping on about covered passages and pallid-pink skin and yarn shops and weird museums)…
why yes, I AM excited by a wall of plants
very excited
but we can head into Notre Dame des Lorette - its cooler in here
... and very beautiful
and serene
Through the Domaine National du Palais Royale (Gravel-Guy says non! to the lovely spherical balls in a pond for our garden by the way…)
I was very tempted to dip the toes, I didn't
like walking through an impressionist art work
heavenly gardens
the balls Gravel-Guy says no to... I want! I want!
and past the Place Collette where there was a live band and people dancing jive (that guy in the boater and his partner in the blue dress were totally knocking the others out of the park).
the couple in front - fabulous!
Through the Tuilieries garden (so beautiful) and up towards Park Monceau, before arriving at our hotel and having a dinner locally. 24 698 steps all in all, a relatively quiet day but for some reason more knackering than the day before.
timeless, yes just like a painting...
Day Three
Our final day in Paris was a special treat – off to Fontainbleu, or as the French royal family probably used to call it, the bach. The train ride was about 40 minutes and we walked through the forest to the more formal grounds, it seemed a good idea to at least walk off breakfast a little – the grounds are very lovely and huge. Really huge. I was just getting used to this idea of huge or very hugely huge, when we saw their holiday house, I am just going to say nonsensically huge, yes it is very beautiful but, for a wee French royal family – just a tiny-teensy bit excessive.
quite a nice approach to the bach...
I can imagine a knitters retreat maybe?
largest parterre in Europe, Gravel-Guy says no to a parterre
yeah, he said no but he'd have knocked a couple of bits off or chipped it before we even had it up
no to a series of chandelier as well
no to decorative panneling
no to fancy ceilings
he was mildly taken with this, but still no
loving the barrier idea - he says no
and no
more no from Gravel-Guy
dinky bed for Napoleon, I like the steps
back staircase, nope from Gravel-Guy
doesn't every holiday home need a small chapel?
off to the Les Jardin des Diane
exquisite, no to the fountain as well
... and he says no to a raised walkway
Gravel-Guy says “NON!” to a canal, boating lake, fountain things, all of it in terms of transplanting ideas back to our garden or tiny house... He was a little taken with the long gallery of books and the globe but it was still “NOPE”... slightly despondent by his lack of enthusiasm for digging up the tiny back garden and rearranging everything, I trailed through the local woods after him as he looked for “the interesting rocks” he has read about… interesting rocks proved harder to find than expected - mainly as he wanted to follow the road for some reason which isnt normally his thing - he likes heading directly through brambles, it wasn’t until we decided to take a short cut through a car park that we found the interesting rocks – lots of them.
These look very "Camoin" style
normally covered in climbers practicing
but very quiet when we were there
So, are these very special rocks?” I ask, apparently not. They are just ornery ol’ sandstone but when everything else abraided away around them, they obdurately remained. They are quite lovely nevertheless. How about these for the garden I ponder? Maybe, he says, maybe.